In August and September 2016, I walked the Westweg through Germany’s Black Forest: roughly 285 kilometres from Pforzheim towards Basel, spread over thirteen walking days. This blog follows the whole journey, from the slightly overconfident booking to the last tired steps into Weil am Rhein.
I started as an office worker with very little hiking experience. A fortnight on the trail sounded like a good way to clear my head. The distances on the itinerary soon made it clear that I would have to train the rest of me as well.
On the descent
The route and the way I travelled
The Westweg was marked out in 1900 and is the oldest high-level walking route through the Black Forest. I chose the western variant, taking in the Feldberg, Belchen and Blauen. There were dark forests, open hillsides, views across the Rhine valley and quite a lot of climbing between them.
I stayed in hotels and had my main luggage transferred between them. That left me with a daypack on the trail and a shower and a bed in the evening. This was a deliberate choice: I wanted a long walk, and I was quite happy to keep a few comforts along the way.
Looking into the valley from Rötteln Castle
Start with the thirteen stages
The stage overview takes you through my route in order, with links to every daily account. The stage reports are in German; the place names, distances and photographs should still make them useful to English-speaking readers.
My itinerary reflects the trip I booked in 2016. It includes overnight stops away from some of the standard stage endpoints, so use it as an account of my journey when putting together your own route.
Before the long walk
I prepared with weekend hikes in the Spessart, Odenwald and Taunus. They were a chance to build some stamina, discover what my equipment actually did in the rain and find out which things could stay at home.
The English account of my training walks covers those trips. For the background to my decision, see how it began; for the practical lessons afterwards, see what I learned on the Westweg (both in German).
Sunshine on the meadow
Ten years later, I have returned to these pages to update the practical information and add later outdoor experiences. The original walk is still at the heart of the blog. I hope it gives you a sense of what the trail feels like — and the confidence to try a long walk yourself, even if your usual working day is spent at a desk.
Five things to know about my Westweg walk · Explore the stages